Google Browser Sync – huh?

I think I might stop using Google Browser Sync after today’s lastest annoyance. So I’ve already told you how stupid it is that Google Browser Sync doesn’t prompt you for the password when you want to sync (especially for those who sync their passwords and entire identity). Then there’s the fact that it delays Firefox from opening while it connects to its server. Why can’t it do that in the background? Or it should also add the option of syncing when I want it to.

The latest annoyance, I’m getting scared. It’s been prompting with this message box before Firefox loads:

Google Browser Sync needs your Firefox Master Password in order to sync your passwords, please enter it below.

Why does it need to know my Firefox Master Password?!?!? I don’t even tell it to sync my passwords. I’ve double checked my settings on both my machines and neither have the password syncing option enabled. Unless someone’s hacked both my GMail account and my Google Browser Sync password, I find it weird that it should suddenly ask me for my master password…

Maybe I shouldn’t be trusting Google so much… Then again, many people have all their emails on their servers which is even scarier.

Now I have one thing more to dislike about it. There’s no way to turn off the sync tool without uninstalling the extension. I can stop the syncing (basically log off the sync tool), but everytime I load Firefox, it prompts me to log into my GMail account, which is worst than delaying the startup of Firefox while it connects to its servers.

Ah… I found out how to disable Firefox extensions w/o uninstalling them. Apparently if you right click on the extension, you can disable it instead of uninstalling it. I knew Firefox would have something like that.

Xbox 360, TOSLINK, and Audigy2 ZS

So I got my TOSLINK cable (optical digital audio cable) from Amazon.com on Friday and went ahead and installed.

First of all, I didn’t know there were these little plastic stubs I had to remove first before plugging it it. So for a few minutes, I was trying to jam it in, but it wouldn’t stay in. I made sure I was aligning it correctly to it’s weird 6 sided shape. I finally noticed the hole and the pin were different sizes. At first I thought I purchased the wrong cable, but as I yanked on the plastic, it came off and it fitted nicely into the Xbox 360 hole. I had to do the same with the other side to stick into my Audigy2 ZS dashboard (comes with the platinum edition).

The cable was super thing. The reviews had already said so, but it was a lot thinner than I had expected. As I mentioned in my previous post, monoPrice.com would probably be the best place to purchase online. Their cable pricing is just awesome, and tack on cheap shipping and you have a winner! The 10ft of cable was more than enough to connect from the back of the Xbox 360 to the front of my computer.

But then I hit the problem where at first no sound was coming out. I thought I had to switch it from analog to digital within the Xbox 360 system settings, but it seems that you can have both digital and analog audio on simultaneously. I made sure that S/PDIF-in was enabled, but still no sound. I finally ended up playing with the digital audio settings inside the Xbox 360 and apparently changing it from Dolby Digital 5.1 to Dolby Digital Stereo worked and audio started to come out! Sweet! Not sure why that was the case since the Audigy2 ZS supports upto 7.1 spearkers.

So Stanman, ChemChampion and I played PGR3 and Perfect Dark Zero from 10pm to 4am.


Speaking of which, there’s this interesting article on Game Console Energy Consumption (from /.). From the article the Xbox 360 uses 2W when it’s turned off, which seems a bit high when compared to the others. However, the article states:

Console       | Energy  | kWh Wasted | Annual
              | Leakage | Each Year  | Cost
---------------------------------------------
Playstation 1 | 0.2W    |  1.752 kWh | $0.26
Playstation 2 | 2W      | 17.52 kWh  | $2.63
Xbox          | 0.4W    |  3.50 kWh  | $0.53
Xbox 360      | 2W      | 17.52 kWh  | $2.63
Gamecube      | 0.4W    |  3.50 kWh  | $0.53
Dreamcast     | 0.4W    |  3.50 kWh  | $0.53

As you can see every single console is a victim of energy leakage to some extent. The losers here are the Xbox 360 and PS2, however the PS2 is the biggest loser of the group. There are a few points that need to be made. While both consoles need to power their internal clocks, they also need to keep their IR ports constants scanning for remote controls trying to power on the console explaining the added power requirements. The Xbox 360 also has to keep its internal wireless card active otherwise it wouldn’t notice when a controller is sending a request for the machine to turn on. So while both machines require the most power, the Xbox 360 has the most components that need to remain powered in standby making the energy leakage a little more acceptable. The idea of spending $2.68 just to have a PS2 plugged in the wall is less then desirable.

The comparison of the consoles when they were running was shocking:

Console       | Dashboard
              | Energy Use
--------------------------
Playstation 1 |   4W
Playstation 2 |  23W
Xbox          |  61W
Xbox 360      | 145W
Gamecube      |  20W
Dreamcast     |  17W

It’s shocking to find that the Xbox uses almost 3x as much energy as the PS2 and the Xbox 360 uses almost 2.5x the energy that the Xbox uses. It’ll be interesting to see how much energy the PS3 would end up using.


Speaking of which, I was looking for ways to obtain cheap Microsoft Points to use in Xbox Live Marketplace just yesterday. eBay wasn’t a good source as the pricing there was even higher than what Xbox Live was selling them for online. The online pricing comes out to be 80pts/$1. Everywhere else either is at that pricing or higher. I decided to wait a bit and see if people end up throwing away points to sell online. Guess what, Outpost is now selling 1600 points for $14.99. There’s even free shipping! That makes it over 106pts/$1. Unfortunately, they charge sales tax in WA (Please note that we charge sales tax for AZ, CA, GA, OH, TX, NV,WA, IL and IN.) making it $16.31 including tax, so the point to dollar ratio is now down to 98pts/$1. Still a really hot deal in my opinion since I couldn’t really find points cheaper elsewhere.

Google Browser Sync

So ever since /. and Ars Technica reported about the Google Browser Sync, I’ve been using it for the past week or so and here are my comments and opinions.

I wouldn’t say this is the best firefox extension ever or wouldn’t say this is unique and the first of its kind, but I would say it’s a heck of a lot better than what was out there. I’ve tried many bookmark synching utilities and none of them have every really met my expectations and I just ended up ditching them and after awhile, stopped searching for new ones. If you search extensions for Firefox, you’ll know there’s bee a bunch out like:

So lets talk about the good stuff first. It not only lets you sychronize your bookmarks, but also lets you choose if you want to synchronize your passwords, your history, your cookies, and your tabs/windows. Next to each syncable item, you have the option to encrypt it. Honestly, I don’t know who would synch their passwords with Google, even if they do encrypt it. It’s like giving Google all the keys to your online identity (even if they claim to be not ‘evil’). I’m only synching my bookmarks at the moment and have enabled encryption and the sychronization occurs seamlessly.

Installation was pretty easy. Clicked on the extension, and it installed. After restarting Firefox, it prompted me to log into my Google account and then set a PIN for encryption. However, the initial setup may take some time if your two browsers have many discrepancies between them, especially if 2 bookmarks have the same URL, but different names/description. I had a bunch of duplicates initially, but after spending 15 minutes or so cleaning up and synching, my bookmarks were the way I want. They also don’t save the site icon which when synching left me with a row of iconless toolbar with now names.

Okay, now on to the bad stuff. First and formost is the fact my data is stored on Google servers. Even though Google may claim to be ‘not evil’ and lets assume they won’t abuse my data, someone might still be able to hack there servers. Since I’m only synching my bookmarks, I’m not too worried since I don’t have any incriminating bookmarks. You should also make sure you didn’t set a bookmark that included your username/password (i.e. http://username:password@www.site.com). The previous synching tools I’ve used before allowed me to setup a ftp server which it’ll upload and download my bookmarks to and from. This however only occurred when I opened my browser and when I closed my browser and lets just say often times my ordering of my bookmarks got messed up. Though I guess Google wants to collect data, and by allowing us to use private servers, they won’t be able to collect the data they want.

Next thing which is really annoying is if you’re using 2 different machines simulataneously with Firefox on, ONLY one of the browsers can be connected to Google’s server. The other one would prompt a error box saying I’ve been signed on somewhere else and would I like to reconnect. By clicking reconnect, my other session gets signed off. I personally think this defeats the purpose of having the browser sync, though I guess it makes Google’s programmers’ lives easier.

The next few issues revolve around the PIN. One thing right off the bat is that Google allows anyone that has access to your profile to see your PIN, just by opening a browser with your profile, going into the tool’s setting, and clicking on the Show button in the Security PIN area. Also, from the FAQ:

Why do I need to provide a PIN?

The PIN you create during setup is used to encrypt information that’s synced between your computers, which may include sensitive information such as your passwords for websites. We use your PIN to unlock that information. Without your PIN, no one will be able to read the information that’s being transmitted between your computers via Google Browser Sync.

What’s the point of encrypting my information?

By encrypting your information, it will be transmitted to and stored on Google’s servers in a format that is nearly impossible to interpret without the PIN. That means that without the PIN, no one, not even Google, will be able to read your data. Therefore, it’s important to choose a good PIN (at least 8 characters including both numbers and letters) that’s hard to guess and to keep your PIN safe. Note that encrypting all of your browser settings may affect the performance of Google Browser Sync and Firefox.

I hope that just means they use my PIN to decrypt my data locally and they don’t store my PIN on their server.

Who On Earth Are You?

Got two more Detective Conan scenes to share:

Detective Conan – Who On Earth Are You? – In Detective Conan Special Episode #304 – A Shaking Police HQ and 12 Million Hostages, Conan decides to not diffuse a bomb because apparently they needed to wait for the clue to pinpoint another bomb location. He apologizes to Detective Takagi and Takagi asks, “Who on earth are you?” Conan replies, “Oh, well if you really want to know… then I’ll tell you… in the next world.”

Initially, Windows Movie Maker was coughing. Super was coughing. Even VirtualDub was coughing. I mean, the video plays fine, but those software just couldn’t find the codec need to parse it. I looked at the file and it apparently was encoded with DivX 3. I have FFDShow installed and that supposedly installs a whole lot of codecs that can parse every XviD and DivX codec there is. But apparently, that wasn’t enough. I had to actually install DivX Codec 3.11 Alpha before the video edit programs would even accept the file. DivX Codec 3.11 Alpha sure does bring back memories.

The second one is:

Detective Conan – Confession of Love – In Movie 4 – Captured In Her Eyes, Ran gets amnesia from shock after seeing Detective Sato getting shot to near death. Conan decides that he’ll do everything in his power to protect her as the culprit may want to kill her before she regains her memory. When Ran questions Conan why he’s protecting her so much, Conan replies, “Because I love you. In this world, I love you more than anyone else.”

Enjoy!

Cardo scala-500

So I received my Cardo scala-500 this Friday and finally got a chance to play with it yesterday. It’s far from being the best bluetooth headset out there, but for $10 after rebate, I wasn’t going to complain:

B$: Cardo scala-500 Bluetooth Headset $9.99 AR
SD: BACK !!! – Cardo Scala-500 Bluetooth Headset for $9.99 shipped AR

cardo scala-500

So the package was decent and the headset is pretty tiny. Besides the ear piece and the AC adapter (to charge), it also comes with booth a ear loop and eyeglasses clip (haven’t figure out how to use the clip yet) to hold the bluetooth ear piece in place. It also comes with a belt clip and neck strap depending on how you like to carry it around. Personally, I got this bluetooth headset as a toy and not something I plan to use daily. In fact I don’t really plan on using it with my cell phone much as I don’t really like talking on the phone. One thing about the ear loop I wished was to make it adjustable, meaning bendable to any shape I want. Currently it’s a big loose and if I’m moving my head a lot, it sways a bit.

The quality is decent. On the headset there’s a volume control and an button. I don’t really like the steps needed to turn it on and off as it requires holding the volume control down until it changes colors. The range is decent. I was able to get clear audio and no static up to about 15ft and could still hear myself around 30ft. I do only have a class 2 bluetooth adapter so that might be why. The product description says it has 9 hours of talk time per charge and a week of stand-by. Also it takes about 2-3 hours to get it fully charged and it’s recommended you let it charge for 4 hours intially.

Connecting it to either my cell phone or computer was pretty easy. The default code is 0000 and it just connects. Both my computer and cell phone recognized it was a headset and treated it as so. There is a weird thing after turning on the headset and it autoconnects to the PC, the incoming audio would all be static, however, I can hear fine. I would then have to reconnect it initiating from the PC side and then all is well.

Another reason why I wanted to get a bluetooth headset is to try out SkypeOut. I’ve made a few calls so far and they’ve been rather clear. I do get some distortion some time, but not because of my bandwidth, but I think it’s because of my CPU being over utilized (i.e. trying to load all the pictures for Window Live Local on my 24″ LCD).

All in all, I’m happy with my new $10 gadget.

If you’re looking for a cheap bluetooth headset to play way, this week BestBuy is selling the Nokia Wireless Headset for Bluetooth-Enabled Phones (Model: BH-200) for $10 out the door. Currently it’s backordered online, but should still be available for pickup in most stores. If not, get a raincheck.

B$: Nokia bluetooth wireless headset for $10 (BH200) 7750105
SD: Nokia Bluetooth headset for $10 @BB (NO REBATES)

nokia bh-200
Just by looking at this picture, I’m not exactly sure how it clips on to your head.

Windows Movie Maker

So I learnt a new trick with Windows Movie Maker today. To a beginner, the application may seem easy to use, but when you’re trying do advance customizations on it, it’s horrible.

Things I don’t like about it:

  • The only way to create clips of long videos is by using the beginning and endng trim lines. What they need is to be able to enter start time and end time for this. Also the trim lines jumps in increments determined by the program so by default it hops every 5 seconds giving you even less control of where you want it to end
  • Only 2 default aspect ratios. 4:3 or 16:9. If you’re video is not one of those ratios, then it stretches one of the dimensions.
  • During save, it doesn’t explicitly allow you to set the resolution nor bitrate. Instead you have the option of choosing the max size or going through a list of video settings that’ll choose the size for you.

Things I like about it:

  • Really easy to use
  • Everything’s pretty much drag and drop
  • Allows you to set a max size to determine the best bitrate. Good when video servers cap you at a certain file size (YouTube: 100MB / PutFile: 25MB)
  • Works with almost all video files. (there were a few that I had problems with)
  • Creates .wmv files that plays in any Windows Media Player

I did have another problem with it before was that trying to move the begin and end trim lines was an arduous process. On the bottom of the screen, there’s a time line that by default shows about 3 minutes worth of clip and you can scroll until you hit the end. If I had a 60 minute clip before, I would have to move the begin trim line 3 minutes in, scroll, and repeat the process. I didn’t find a easy way to zoom in or out of the time line, until I accidentally found out how to do it today.

Apparently, by holding down CTRL and using your scroll wheel (CTRL + SCROLL WHEEL), you can zoom in and out of the time line like you would in a picture. Now I can zoom out so far that the entire timeline fits on one screen and then move the trim lines from there. Afterwards, I would zoom in to both trim lines, so the increments/decrements will be small and I could be more precise on when to exactly start and stop. Still not as great as being able to enter the stard and end time, but way better than what I had before.

So I went ahead and made these clips where I took screenshots of and posted in one of my previous entries: Favorite Detective Conan moments:

Detective Conan – NEED NOT TO KNOW (mirror).
Detective Conan – Identity Almost Revealed to Ran (mirror)

If you’re using the PutFile link, you might need to change View Size to WIDE for the dimensions to be correct.

Panasonic KX-TG5421S 5.8GHz Digital Cordless Phone

So someone on FW posted about a week ago that Costco was selling a Panasonic 5.8GHz cordless phone for $30. I couldn’t believe it. The past few times I dropped by Costco to check out the phones (needed a second one because I have 2 VoIP lines), all their Panasonic 5.8GHz cordless phones were over $100. In fact I’ve checked every single time (maybe not the last time I went).

But I was due for a Costco run this week. My snacks in my office had run out and decided to spin over the phone section to check it out. Apparently they’ve moved the phone section right next to the entrace (the unpopular side). Guess not that many people were looking for phones. The funny thing is that, they now carry 2 Panasonic 5.8GHz Cordless phones less than $100. One for $29.99 and another for $59.99. The $59.99 I believe was expandable to x number of handsets. I don’t remember the model number, but it’s not on Costco.com.

The one I purchased was the Panasonic KX-TG5421S 5.8GHz Digital Cordless Phone for $29.99. I had some requirements for the phone I was going to purchase:

  1. It had to be 5.8GHz – I already have a 900MHz phone and the quality gets pretty bad when I start walking around room to room. I also didn’t want a 2.4GHz so it’ll conflict with my WiFi.
  2. I was hoping for Panasonic – Uniden and others may have worked, but I was only willing to pay a premium for Panasonic.
  3. I was hoping to purchase at Costco – Having several Uniden cordless phones die on me over the past years, I wanted to purchase one from somewhere with a good return policy
  4. It had to be cheaper than $10 (non-panasonic) or cheaper than $50 (panasonic).

Welp, I guess my patience have been worthwhile:

Panasonic KX-TG5421S

Some things that are lacking in this model is an answering machine. However, both my VoIP service come with voicemail which emails me the messages directly, so I wasn’t looking for one with an answering machine in the 1st place. I haven’t played with it’s features that much yet, but there is this neat speakerphone on the handset itself. I was speaking to my dad for almost 2 hours through it today and it was fine. I haven’t tested it’s range yet, but when I do, I’ll post an update.

This model doesn’t seem that popular online: PriceGrabber, but as you can see, all of them are selling for at least $40. Amazon.com has the item page, but isn’t selling it personally. There might even be profit to be made reselling them.

//krunk (^_^x)

Western Digital Customer Loyalty Program

Apparently Western Digital has a customer loyalty program that gives pretty nice discounts (from SD):

What drives do they have?
– They have over 30 different models available. the popular ones in this thread are the 400GB SATA, 320GB SATA, and the 36GB Raptor.

WD3200JD SATA 150 MB/s 7200rpm 320gig 8.9 ms 8 MB cache $89
WD2500JD SATA 150 MB/s 7200 250 8.9 ms 8 MB $65
WD3200JB EIDE 100 MB/s 7200 320 8.9 ms 8 MB $97
WD2500JB EIDE 100 MB/s 7200 250 8.9 ms 8 MB $65
WD4000KD SATA 150 MB/s 7200 400 8.9 ms 16 MB $143
WD2500SB EIDE 100 MB/s 7200 250 8.9 ms 8 MB $77
WD360GD SATA 1.5 Gb/s 10,000 36 4.5 ms 8 MB $82

I have yet to find the entire list yet, but from what is shown, these are pretty good prices. The price includes shipping and other fees. These drives are brand new and come with 3 year warrant (5 if you order the Raptors). The only ceveat is the drive you use (serial number) to get this drive upgrade will have its warranty voided. However, drives with expired warranty apparently still work. You can order as many drives as you want, but each drive you order requries a unique serial number.

How can I upgrade or trade up my WD drive to a larger drive?

Western Digital has a WD Customer Loyalty Program that allows you to upgrade your current WD drive to a larger drive. Under the WD Customer Loyalty Program, you can purchase a new drive with the full manufacturer warranty at a discount price. Pricing and availability are subject to change.

If you are interested in the WD Customer Loyalty Program, please contact us at 1-800-275-4932. Please select Option # 4 in the phone menu to reach the WD Customer Loyalty department.

Enjoy!

.dd-wrt v23 SP1

So .dd-wrt v23 SP1 was released earlier this week and I didn’t have time to flash my Linksys WRT54G v4 till today. Linksys now has 3 varieties of this router: WRT54G, WRT54GS, WRT54GL. The main difference between the 3 is that the WRT54G no longer supports outside firmware, and that line was renamed to WRT54GL (L = Linux). The WRT54GS comes with SpeedBooster technology. According to Linksysinfo.org, the only difference is that the WRT54GS comes with twice as much RAM.

You can download the newest firmware here or click one of the following direct links:
dd-wrt.v23_sp1_micro.zip
dd-wrt.v23_sp1_mini.zip
dd-wrt.v23_sp1_standard.zip
dd-wrt.v23_sp1_voip.zip
dd-wrt.v23_sp1_vpn.zip

I went with the standard as usual, since I didn’t want to limit my options and didn’t really need it customized for VPN or VoIP. To give you a better idea on how to decide, this was taken from their homepage:

DD-WRT v23 SP1 final is now available for download in the following distributions:
micro – made for low memory and flash space devices. its does support the WRT54G/GS v5 too. but you need a jtag adapter to get it on this unit for the first time. consult the dd-wrt wiki for step by step instructions
mini – minimal feature set dd-wrt. it contains almost everything you need and leaves also enough flash space free for doing some customization using jffs
standard – standard feature set dd-wrt which contains almost everything you need for professional usage including snmp, hotspot features like chillispot and sputnik ™.
voip – contains a additional SIP Gateway Routing system for managing SIP capable devices in a private network
vpn – contains a full featured openvpn client for high secure network connections.

Some notes, the default username has been changed from admin to root. So you have to log in using root and your previous password. Also do note, they recommend you to reset your router to factory settings and I always forget what my default WRT54G username/password is. So if you have forgotten, the default username/password is (blank)/admin (from Default Router Usernames and Passwords).

Under DHCP, the default Client Lease Time was set to 1440 minutes. I thought that was a funky number, so I changed it to 3600 minutes. Later I realized was thinking 3600 seconds per hour and if that was minutes, it would mean 60 hours. So I went and calculated how many minutes per day, and guess what, 24 * 60 = 1440 minutes per day. Haha. The default was what I already wanted. Previously the client lease time was set to 10 minutes. Not sure if that was the default, or I somehow managed to set it to that low.

Of course I’ve bumped up my Xmit Power from 28mW to 251mW, however it appears there’s this new setting labeled Noise Reference which can be set between 0 and -100db. It’s default to -98db, so I’m just going to leave it there for now, but if you know what the advantages of changing that (yes, I’m too lazy to go look it up right now), please let me know.

I haven’t played around with the settings much yet. Re-enabled my port forwarding table and setup my wireless security and things have been working fine so far. One thing I noticed is that DNS lookup seems to break afterawhile, and I had to set my DNS servers manually to bypass resetting the router everyday. I wonder if this update fixed that.

VoiceStick

With AOL releasing their AIM Phoneline, there’s been a lot of discussion of different VoIP services. I had given it a shot, but it didn’t have any numbers 626 numbers (Monterey Park, CA) or 425 numbers (Redmond, WA) available for me. I got a PM from another user that said he had gotten a 626 number in Alhambra, so I tried Mark Keppel’s address, but it still said no numbers were available. Probably all the 626 numbers are gone.

I was also introduced to VoiceStick.com today and I’m surprised I didn’t know about it before. This is so cool, even cooler than IPKall which I had introduced several times on this website.

VoiceStick has this Next2Nothing plan which is well, FREE. You get you own local number which others can reach you at and it’s unlimited incoming calls. However, outgoing calls cost 2.4¢/min to anywhere in the USA/Canada, but there’s always SkypeOut for that till the end of this year. Also, the quality of VoiceStick is better than IPKall as I’ve even gotten fax to come in w/o any problems. So now I have a local number for friends and family back in socal that want to reach me, but for now, it’ll only get the fax machine on my computer until I purchase a 2nd phone.

You no longer have to install the bloatware that AOL requires you to install before using the AIM Phoneline.

Another cool thing is that VoiceStick works with any compatible SIP software/hardware, so I was able to configure my Linksys PAP2 to work with it with help from this thread: Configuring Sipura SPA-2000 to use Voicestick

The attributes you have to change are:

SIP Port: 5060 (or 5061)
Proxy: i2telecom.com
Use Outbound Proxy: Yes
Outbound Proxy: 206.165.50.116
User ID: <your login>
Password: <your password>

I haven’t tried to see if there were any 425 #s but since this is nationwide, I would expect them to.

I currently have $0 balance in my VoiceStick account and don’t really plan to make outgoing calls anyway. There’s always my cellphone for that.